36 hours in Denver

By Steve Knopper

Steve Knopper is a Billboard editor at large who has lived in Denver’s West Highland neighborhood since 2001.

Aug. 22, 2024

Catching tantalizing glimpses of the snow-capped Front Range becomes addictive in Denver, whether you’re running through one of more than 280 city parks, gazing through a restaurant’s west-facing windows, or just strolling between breweries and art museums — an activity even more inviting when temperatures start to cool down. While the Rocky Mountains are constant, the city is undergoing a rebirth, although tremendous population growth has come with its own pains, particularly related to affordable housing. Union Station, Denver’s 110-year-old transit hub, unveiled a refresh in July; the 16th Street Mall, a mile-long, pedestrian-friendly shopping strip downtown, is gradually reopening its granite-tiled walkways as part of a reported $149 million overhaul; and the Populus Hotel, which resembles a giant slice of lemon-poppyseed cake and has ambitious sustainability goals, opens downtown in mid-September.

Recommendations

• The Museum of Contemporary Art is a four-story collection of provocative video installations, found art and interactive exhibits with a rooftop bar and cafe.
• Red Rocks Amphitheater, where the Beatles, U2 and thousands of other stars have performed, has panoramic views of Denver and the Front Range in the background.
• Sloan’s Lake Park offers views of the Front Range to the west and the Denver skyline to the east, as well as the city’s biggest lake, with a surrounding paved loop that is perfect for running, walking and cycling.

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